- Choose an exercise:
- Rapid failure:
- Short rests between sets:
- How much?
- Change and track:
- Awareness for efficacy of training and injury risk:
this exercise called dead hang for finger strength.
it was developed by Eva lopez the Spanish climber and trainer.
1. 45 min of light bouldering, dont get worked.
3. dead hangs hangs:
5 max Hangs for 10 sec on Small edge 18mm with 27.5 kg .
The amount of weight is determined by your ability to hang for 13 sec no less no more .
a cycle is 8 weeks 4 weeks with weihts and 4 weeks is dead hang on the smallest edge you can with no added weight .
soon i upload more videos.